31 January 2008

Roman observations

Before I begin blogging about my experiences in Rome, I thought I might first make a few general observations about how things in Rome have changed since I was last there.

As part of my seminary studies, I spent nearly a month in Rome five years ago from January 19 through February 14, 2003. It was easily the best month of my life and, given the same time frame for my recent visit (January 21-29), affords an opportunity for real observation.

English speaking Romans

What first struck me is that many more Italians are speaking English, and rather well, than I found five years ago.

They don’t, of course, speak English as soon as you walk into their shop or restaurant – especially if you have the gift (and complexion and build) of blending in – but if you greet them first in Italian and then politely ask if they speak English I found that most were happy to comply. The potential monetary compensation no doubt offered some incentive.

Friendly and not so friendly shop keepers

In visiting the various shops a pilgrim – tourists typically do not pay enough attention – will notice that the shop keepers located very near the primary attractions of Rome are not overly friendly. This is due, no doubt, to the overwhelming numbers of tourists who do not treat them politely when entering their stores.

In Italy it is considered polite to greet the shop keeper upon entering, perhaps even speaking with them briefly, looking around and then politely thanking them (you have, after all, just been in their shop) upon leaving the store.

Most tourists simply walk in and out.

The shopping experience in Italy is supposed to be far friendlier and enjoyable in Italy than in the typical U.S. (I found something of the same in Hawaii).

But the farther away one wanders from the major sites the friendlier the shop keepers become. This is not so surprising to me but I had forgotten it. More often than not you will also find a better deal in these stores.

To take a picture or not

While in Rome five years ago I regret very much not taking very many pictures, both because I always thought that since I was in Rome for a month I would take pictures later (I never did) and because in most of the basilicas and churches signs were posted that clearly said “no photography”. Even though most people ignored the signs, I typically obeyed them.

Now, though, these signs are largely gone. They remain in a few locations but only for particular pieces of art within certain churches. Photography now seems to be encouraged, something for which I am grateful.

Where are the Romans?

Despite the mild weather in Rome (the average temperature this time of year is in the middle fifties) there were not nearly as many Romans dining out in the evenings as I recall. I suspect this is due in large part to the rise of the Euro. This past week one U.S. dollar was only worth 1.48 Euro. The costs of dining out now are greater than they were five years ago when the exchange rate dollar to Euro was, I recall, 1.28.

The small Eternal City

One final observation for this post is that Rome really is not as big as one might think, especially when looking at a map. With a brisk pace you can walk across Rome in less than two hours, which isn’t quite so easy because the streets twist and turn and come to an end very often. It becomes something like a maze in which you – or at least I – must get lost in a few times on your own before really getting the hang of it.

These are a few of my general observations. More will undoubtedly follow in future posts.

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